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Faux Fuzzis with envelope style opening

First, draw your pattern.  The straight width across the back is 20.5 inches.

The length along the center is 19 inches.

The straight width across the front is 13 inches.

Measure along the center from the front to the back and mark these increments: 3 inches from the front, 8 inches from the front, 13 inches from the front, and 16 inches (which is 3 inches from the backJ). Following is the width of the pattern at each of these marks:

3” = 8.625”

8” =  8.125”

13” = 10.625”

16” = 14.75”

Translation: 0.625 = 5/8, 0.125 = 1/8, 0.75 = ¾

That should give you some guidance to draw in the curvature.  The wing tips and the front tips are straight, angled directly away from the top and front and the legs begin to curve close to the elastic points.  I recommend that you sketch your pattern, and then fold in half to get it symmetrical.

Elastic marks:  Measuring along the side of your wing, from the top tip down the leg, it is 9” to where the back of the leg elastic should start.  Measuring along the side coming down from the top, it is approx. 3.25” to where the front of the leg elastic reaches.  The mark for the back elastic is 9” from the wing tip.

Seam allowance: A ¼” seam allowance is allowed, except in the leg areas where a ½” seam allowance has been given to allow for elastic and casings.

Snap placement:  Use the following picture as a guide to determine where to place snaps.  Note that slight adjustments may certainly be made with fantastic results!

Snaps along the top row are 1” from the top of the pattern and are 1” apart, beginning with each middle snap ½” from center.  There are 6 snaps total.

Second row snaps have an odd placement and I’ve done my best to show it with the grid.  I hope it is clear enough! 

Sewing Instructions!

Cut one pattern piece from pul/outer, and one piece from microfleece/inner.

Cut a scrap to add behind the snaps for stability.  Place snaps in the outer fabric.

Cut flap for the envelope style opening.  My flap is the top 3” of the pattern, and is cut from whatever inner fabric I am using.  I trim my main inner piece approximately ¼-1/2” from the top edge:

Layer the pieces right sides together, with the inner fabric big piece overlapping the flap:

Serge the edges, trimming a little to keep edges even but not much.  I don’t even pin, I just go slow and keep lining it up.

Next is the elastic and it can be done two ways.  The fuzzi way is to sew the elastic in, just beyond the serging stitches.  I used a 3-step zigzag, pulling to stretch as I went, and cutting at the end:

I tried another option way where I did not sew the elastic in, but only stitched the ends down in the legs.  (not stitching it in seems like it has a better recovery and the leg openings are “stretchier”):

Turn

While stretching the elastic out straight, and being careful not to catch it, stitch a casing around the elastic at the legs and the back.

Here you can see a difference in the “recovery” between sewing the elastic in vs. only stitching down the ends.  I did try to use the same amount of elastic in both:

Place snaps on the wings.  One snap is right in the wing corner, and the other snap is down the side, about 2.125” away from the center of the first snap.

Done!

Here are some comparison pictures:

Check out the difference in the leg openings between all 3 diapers.  Because this is a cotton fabric that has been laminated, it does not have as much stretch to it as the fuzzi bunz diaper does.  That will change the fit range some.